RETIRO PARK
ITINERARY THROUGH
THE RETIRO PARK
The Buen Retiro Park, popularly known as El Retiro, is one of Madrid's most important green spaces and an iconic area steeped in history, culture, and nature. Created in the 17th century as part of the Buen Retiro Palace, this garden was originally an exclusive recreational retreat for royalty. However, in the 19th century, following the Mendizábal land confiscations, the park was opened to the public, becoming a place of leisure for all Madrid residents.
El Retiro Park is home to iconic landmarks such as the Estanque Grande (Great Pond), where boat rides are offered; the imposing Monument to Alfonso XII; the romantic Crystal Palace; and the Velázquez Palace, both dedicated to art exhibitions. It also hides magical corners like the Fountain of the Galapagos, the Rose Garden, and the curious statue of the Fallen Angel, one of the few representations of Lucifer in the world.
This space is not only a haven of tranquility in the heart of Madrid, but it is also part of the Landscape of Light, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
Alcalá Gate
The Puerta de Alcalá is one of Madrid's most iconic monuments and one of the city's former gateways. Built in 1778 by order of King Charles III, it was designed by the architect Francesco Sabatini, who conceived it as a triumphal arch to grace the eastern entrance to the city.
Built in the Neoclassical style, the gate features five arches: three semicircular and two lintelled. Its decoration includes symbolic elements such as cornices, moldings, and sculptures, most notably the coats of arms of Spain held by allegorical figures. Its name derives from the road that led to Alcalá de Henares, one of the main routes of the time.
The Puerta de Alcalá is not only a historical symbol, but also a cultural one, inspiring songs, poems, and traditions. Today, it stands in the Plaza de la Independencia, presiding over the entrance to the Retiro Park and forming part of Madrid's most beloved cityscape.
1. Parterre of the Retiro Park
The French Parterre is one of the most elegant and meticulously maintained spaces in Retiro Park, designed in the 18th century during the reign of Philip V, who introduced a taste for the French style to Spain. This garden is characterized by its perfect, symmetrical, and organized geometry, typical of French Baroque gardens, inspired by the style of Versailles.
In the Parterre, one exceptional element stands out: the Ahuehuete of El Retiro, considered one of the oldest trees in Madrid. At over 400 years old, this ahuehuete (Taxodium mucronatum) is a true witness to the park's historical past, as it is believed to have been planted when the Buen Retiro was still an exclusive estate for the court.
This corner of the Retiro, with its neatly trimmed hedges, statues and fountains, offers a refined contrast to the wilder, wooded areas of the park.
2. Octagonal Pond
The Octagonal Pond, also known as the Chinesca Pond, is a small and charming body of water located in the oldest part of the park, near the Parterre. Its octagonal design reflects the typical symmetry of the Baroque period and the taste for ornamental water features in 17th-century royal gardens.
In its time, this pond was part of a decorative ensemble that included pavilions and fountains, conceived as a recreational area for the court. Although not as well-known as the Great Pond, the Octagonal Pond is an ideal place to pause and enjoy the tranquility offered by this less-traveled corner of the Retiro Park.
3. Monument to the Fallen Angel
The statue of the Fallen Angel, located in the roundabout of the same name, is one of Madrid's most curious and enigmatic monuments, as it represents Lucifer after his expulsion from Heaven. It is one of the few sculptures in the world dedicated to the devil. The work was created by the sculptor Ricardo Bellver in 1877, inspired by a passage from John Milton's poem Paradise Lost.
The highly expressive statue depicts Lucifer at the moment of his defeat and fall into the abyss. It stands atop an octagonal column surrounded by fountains adorned with figures of serpents and demons, which heighten the drama of the scene. This monument is the subject of numerous urban legends, which have only increased its appeal as a point of interest for locals and visitors alike.
4. The Rose Garden
The Rose Garden is a romantic and colorful corner located in the southern part of Retiro Park. Designed in 1915 by the gardener Cecilio Rodríguez, this floral gem boasts more than 4,000 rose bushes of different varieties, which bloom in spring and summer, offering a spectacle of colors and aromas.
Inspired by classic European gardens, the Rose Garden includes pergolas, fountains, and pathways that invite leisurely strolls. It is also notable for its symmetry and meticulous design, with strategically placed benches for enjoying the views and the serene atmosphere.
The Rose Garden is the perfect place for a quiet break during the tour, especially in the months of May and June, when the roses reach their peak splendor.
1. Parterre of the Retiro Park
The French Parterre is one of the most elegant and meticulously maintained spaces in Retiro Park, designed in the 18th century during the reign of Philip V, who introduced a taste for the French style to Spain. This garden is characterized by its perfect, symmetrical, and organized geometry, typical of French Baroque gardens, inspired by the style of Versailles.
In the Parterre, one exceptional element stands out: the Ahuehuete of El Retiro, considered one of the oldest trees in Madrid. At over 400 years old, this ahuehuete (Taxodium mucronatum) is a true witness to the park's historical past, as it is believed to have been planted when the Buen Retiro was still an exclusive estate for the court.
This corner of the Retiro, with its neatly trimmed hedges, statues and fountains, offers a refined contrast to the wilder, wooded areas of the park.
2. Octagonal Pond
The Octagonal Pond, also known as the Chinesca Pond, is a small and charming body of water located in the oldest part of the park, near the Parterre. Its octagonal design reflects the typical symmetry of the Baroque period and the taste for ornamental water features in 17th-century royal gardens.
In its time, this pond was part of a decorative ensemble that included pavilions and fountains, conceived as a recreational area for the court. Although not as well-known as the Great Pond, the Octagonal Pond is an ideal place to pause and enjoy the tranquility offered by this less-traveled corner of the Retiro Park.
3. Monument to the Fallen Angel
The statue of the Fallen Angel, located in the roundabout of the same name, is one of Madrid's most curious and enigmatic monuments, as it represents Lucifer after his expulsion from Heaven. It is one of the few sculptures in the world dedicated to the devil. The work was created by the sculptor Ricardo Bellver in 1877, inspired by a passage from John Milton's poem Paradise Lost.
The highly expressive statue depicts Lucifer at the moment of his defeat and fall into the abyss. It stands atop an octagonal column surrounded by fountains adorned with figures of serpents and demons, which heighten the drama of the scene. This monument is the subject of numerous urban legends, which have only increased its appeal as a point of interest for locals and visitors alike.
4. The Rose Garden
The Rose Garden is a romantic and colorful corner located in the southern part of Retiro Park. Designed in 1915 by the gardener Cecilio Rodríguez, this floral gem boasts more than 4,000 rose bushes of different varieties, which bloom in spring and summer, offering a spectacle of colors and aromas.
Inspired by classic European gardens, the Rose Garden includes pergolas, fountains, and pathways that invite leisurely strolls. It is also notable for its symmetry and meticulous design, with strategically placed benches for enjoying the views and the serene atmosphere.
The Rose Garden is the perfect place for a quiet break during the tour, especially in the months of May and June, when the roses reach their peak splendor.
5. Cecilio Rodríguez Gardens
The Cecilio Rodríguez Gardens, located in the southern part of Retiro Park, are a space that combines classic French garden design with Andalusian influences. They were designed in 1941 by Cecilio Rodríguez, who was Madrid's chief gardener, as a modern reinterpretation of traditional ornamental gardens.
The grounds are notable for their symmetry and meticulous design, with pergolas, fountains, and statues adorning the pathways. A unique feature is the presence of peacocks, which roam freely among visitors, adding an exotic and elegant touch. The gardens are a perfect place to enjoy tranquility and beauty in the heart of the city.
6. Crystal Palace
The Crystal Palace, built in 1887, is a masterpiece of iron and glass architecture, designed by Ricardo Velázquez Bosco. Inspired by London's Crystal Palace, it was created to house an exhibition of tropical flora from the Philippines.
Surrounded by a small pond and trees, this building blends harmoniously into the Retiro Park landscape, becoming one of its most photogenic spots. Currently, the Crystal Palace is managed by the Reina Sofía Museum and hosts temporary exhibitions of contemporary art, offering a contrast between historical architecture and modern art.
7. Velázquez Palace
The Velázquez Palace, located near the Crystal Palace, is another example of the architectural talent of Ricardo Velázquez Bosco, built between 1881 and 1883. It was originally designed as a pavilion for the Mining, Metallurgy, Ceramics and Decorative Arts exhibitions.
The building combines red brick with decorative ceramics from the Royal Factory of La Moncloa, creating a façade that reflects the historicist and eclectic style of the late 19th century. Like the Crystal Palace, this space is currently managed by the Reina Sofía Museum and hosts contemporary art exhibitions.
8. Monument to Alfonso XII
The Monument to Alfonso XII, located opposite the Great Pond, is one of the most iconic landmarks in El Retiro Park. It was inaugurated in 1922 as a tribute to King Alfonso XII by his wife, Queen Regent Maria Cristina. Designed by the architect José Grases Riera, it combines architectural and sculptural elements of great monumentality.
The complex includes a large semicircular colonnade surrounding an equestrian statue of Alfonso XII, a work by the sculptor Mariano Benlliure. The base of the monument is decorated with allegorical figures representing values such as patriotism, progress, and peace. This spot is ideal for enjoying panoramic views of the Estanque Grande (Great Pond) and the park.
9. Retiro Pond
The Great Pond of El Retiro Park is one of the park's oldest and most emblematic features. It was built in the 17th century as part of the Buen Retiro Palace and was originally used for nautical spectacles organized by the court, including mock naval battles.
Today, the pond is a popular spot for boating and a central feature of the park. On its banks stands the Monument to Alfonso XII, which dominates the landscape with its grandeur. During the summer months, the pond comes alive with recreational activities, open-air concerts, and visitors enjoying its relaxed atmosphere.
10. Puerta de Alcalá
The Puerta de Alcalá is one of Madrid's most emblematic monuments and a historical symbol whose function and meaning have evolved over the centuries. Located in the Plaza de la Independencia, this monumental gate was commissioned by King Charles III in 1778 to replace an earlier structure that served as the city's main entrance. Its original purpose was twofold: firstly, to beautify Madrid in accordance with the urban reforms promoted by the enlightened monarch, and secondly, to mark the entrance from the road leading to Alcalá de Henares.
Historical aspects and function over time
From its inception, the Puerta de Alcalá played a vital role as a gateway to Madrid. In the 18th century, Madrid was enclosed by a wall that defined the city limits, and the Puerta de Alcalá was located at one of its most strategic points. Along with other gates such as the Puerta de Toledo and the Puerta de Segovia, it served as a control point for the movement of people and goods. Here, tolls were collected on goods entering the city.
With the passage of time and the expansion of Madrid, the wall was demolished in the 19th century, and the Puerta de Alcalá lost its practical function as an entrance, but gained in symbolism as a prominent monument of the city's historical and artistic heritage. During the 19th and 20th centuries, it witnessed numerous historical events, such as patriotic celebrations, parades, and even episodes of conflict, such as during the Spanish Civil War, when the gate suffered damage that was later repaired.
Architectural design and style
The Puerta de Alcalá is a prime example of the Neoclassical style, influenced by the artistic movements of the Enlightenment that sought to revive the simplicity and majesty of classical architecture. It was designed by the Italian architect Francesco Sabatini, who was the trusted architect of Charles III and also responsible for other significant works in Madrid, such as the renovations of the Royal Palace and the design of the Royal Stables.
The gate is constructed of granite and features a monumental structure with five arches: three semicircular and two lintelled. The decoration is understated yet symbolic, including elements such as:
- Sculptures and allegorical reliefs, made by the sculptors Francisco Gutiérrez and Roberto Michel, which represent virtues such as prudence, justice, strength and temperance, qualities that were attributed to Charles III as an enlightened monarch.
- Cornices and moldings that frame the arches and add elegance to the design.
- At the top, the finial includes a coat of arms of Spain crowned by allegorical figures.
One of the most interesting aspects is that the Puerta de Alcalá has two different facades. The side facing outwards from the city (towards Alcalá de Henares) has a more austere design, while the side facing inwards is more elaborate and rich in detail, reflecting the idea of giving a majestic welcome to those arriving in Madrid.
Legacy and current symbolism
Today, the Puerta de Alcalá is much more than a historical monument: it is a symbol of the city of Madrid and a landmark for locals and tourists alike. It frequently appears in popular culture, such as in songs, poems, and photographs, and is part of the Landscape of Light, recently declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
Due to its strategic location in the Plaza de la Independencia, next to the Retiro Park, the Puerta de Alcalá is an iconic place to enjoy the urban landscape, take photographs or simply stop to admire the majesty of a monument that has withstood the test of time and continues to be an emblem of the splendor of Madrid.
